For those who couldn't go to the NYC Chocolate Show last weekend, I publish my conference on Californian Chocolatiers.
I.A historical linkDuring my exploration of the chocolate in California, I found a historical link with the region. While asking Jason Vishnefske, from
Santa Barbara Chocolates about this long-term relationship, he told me about the earliest Spanish settlers that rewarded the local Chumash Indian tribes with chocolate for helping in the missions.
Gold Rush and consequencesLater on, the Gold Rush period generated vocations in the chocolate field. The exploration by unlucky miners of the bordering countries such as Mexico, Costa Rica or Nicaragua, allowed the discovery of chocolate as a drink, like Charles Ross Parke testifies in Dreams to Dust, A Diary of the Californian Gold Rush:
"One of the citizens came out to meet us and escort us to his house, where a beautiful supper was ordered for us consisting of tortillas, biscuits and huevos with the most delicious chocolate I ever tasted."

One clever entrepreneur, Domingo Ghirardelli understood there was business to do with the miners and started to sell them chocolate with two purposes : give them some comfort after hard days of work and most of all, give them something to spend their gold in ;-) The real start of the Girardelli Chocolate "Empire" dates back to 1852.
Beatriz Ledezma, Caxao
As an illustration of the historical link between cocoa and California, I chose the example of Beatriz Ledezma, who's Mexican and decided to set up her chocolate factory in San Diego, CA in 2005. Her brand
Caxao was created in 2007. At the conference, we tasted her Rose Petal Dark ganache.
II.A trend setting regionTo explain the concentration of so many high-end chocolatiers in California, besides the climate which all chocolate makers find ideal for the product, the food movements in the region are central.
With the most spectacular urban growth in the modern West, California is a trend-setting land, as described in The American West, A Twentieth Century History, by Michael P. Malone and Richard W. Etulain. As for them
"Nothing better illustrates the modern West's evolution from a colonial region - looking elsewhere for its cultural cues - into a pacemaking, trendsetting, postregional culture than does California."Food Movements
Among the main cultural changes observed in California, two movements are crucial in the evolution of nutrition and gastronomy in the region :
- The Raw Food MovementInitiated at the beginning of last century, it was re-launched in 1984 by Leslie Kenton who recommended sprouts, cereals, seeds based meals and fresh vegetables juices. Its promotions was supported by the hippie movement in the 1970's and 1980's.
- The Farmers Market Movement

Encouraged in 1977, when restrictions for local farmers to come and sell their products into the city ended because of production surplus.
Fresh products became accessible to consumers but also to chefs in restaurants.
Chocolate makers like John Scharffenberger and Michael Recchiuti started to source their ingredients on the Farmers Market.
Peter Brydon, Barlovento
Peter Brydon, located in Oakland, CA with its brand Barlovento, is a perfect illustration of this movement as he sources a lot of his products on the Market. He also goes further with its Meyers Lemon Zest Dark ganache, which we tasted at the conference, for which he sources the fruits directly in its clients' gardens! (see
Interview on the blog, July 15, 2009).
III.Mixed culturesAs already said, the main explaination of such a concentration is the capacity of California to be open to foreign influences and to settle new trends. As Jason explains with a bit of self-derision:
"Being American, we like to borrow ideas from all cultures and countries and then combine
this with our local ingredients. It is not uncommon for a California chocolatier to use French chocolate Valrhona Guanaja to coat a Belgian mould design and then pipe a flowing American marshmallow as a center
into the mould. Yes it may seem barbaric but this is very American and scary to admit very tasty good."Well, just have a look at Michael Recchiuti's Smores (right here ==>), and maybe you won't find it barbaric anymore (I tasted, it's terrific ;-)
Timothy Childs, Tcho ChocolatesTcho Chooclate brand combines both the love of chocolate and a technological approach. Timothy Childs, a former engineer, with his associates, exploits its background to reduce the production process and limit energy consumption or maintenance and thus focuses on the chocolate quality.


Using 2.0 web tools, he also helps consumers to get closer to the cocoa producers, without forgetting to put them in touch with the factory workers.
At the conference, we tasted Tcho's Chocolately bar.
As a bonus, I'll publish the interview of Timothy Childs in a few days... as soon as I get back my hard disk.
In the meantime, here are the links to all the nice chocolate makers who took the time to answer my questions
Beatriz Ledezma,
Caxao
Peter Brydon,
BarloventoTimothy Childs,
Tcho Chocolates
Jason Vishnevske,
Santa Barbara ChocolateMimi Milne,
Ojai ChocolatesRobert Lambert If you want even more, check this
San José Mercury News article by Jackie Burrell about some Bay Area chocolate makers, pulished just two days before the conference. Looks like the subject is getting more and more fans!